morning-surf (3)

I can hardly begin to tell you how beautiful the surf was this morning at Illaroo.

I swam out beyond the surf just after sunrise with my trusty spongey and watched a perfect wave rise up. The sun was visible though the wave, a hands-breadth above the horizon. When I belly surfed back in I scudded way out in front of the breaking wave leaving all the crashing foam behind. It reminded me of scooting down the hill at Lezerea on my 'Chipper' bike. It was great, couldn't help but laugh out loud as I shot back in. 

I have just had a great weekend with Cheri, Jay and the boys. They are all happily camping at Illaroo/Minnie Water. Evan and Emrys are getting on so well, they seem to be doing lots of stuff together. Lots of odd little clay sculptures round the fire. They found some exposed clay on the headland and have been making stuff. 

So now I am 39 years old. Holy cow - I'm so immature.